Grace Dent reviews Pufferfish at Mahiki Kensington: The bouji brigade are all heading there

There was only one option. All-new Pufferfish at Mahiki Kensington, a mock-Polynesian raw bar and sashimi palace, open from 4pm, which transforms into an upscale party palace as the evening progresses. ‘But isn’t there already a Mahiki in Mayfair?’ I hear you saying. Yes, and now there are two, which helps to contain into safe spaces the banter, the boujiness and those birds in Lipsy playsuits who aim to ensnare a footballer or a mysteriously rich body builder type who explains his wealth as ‘owning a garage’.

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